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Survival knives

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posted on Jul, 24 2011 @ 05:13 PM
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Knives are very useful items to carry in any survival situation, with a multitude of practical uses. So the question then becomes, what are the major differences in capabilities between fixed bladed knives and folding knives. I know that folding knives are generally a bit easier to conceal, but aren't as tough as fixed bladed knives. Are there any major differences other than that in the capabilites of fixed and folding knives?
edit on 24-7-2011 by JDBlack because: can't write



posted on Jul, 24 2011 @ 05:19 PM
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i ave a leatherman but also got a bigger single blade



posted on Jul, 24 2011 @ 05:23 PM
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Once you are past the ability to hide a knife, the only major difference is the amount of wear and tear a knife can handle.

A folder has multiple parts and that is it's major draw back. Fixed blades are much more rugged, last longer, and are easier to repair.

I know a great many people that carry a fixed blade and use a folder as a back up. You also have to consider that knives have different uses. I can't chop wood with my folder and I can't remove a splinter with my fixed blade.

Hope that little ramble made some kind of sense.



posted on Jul, 24 2011 @ 05:24 PM
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I think its good to have a leatherman or something with pliers and also a good fixed blade with a real functional blade shape like a bowie. I really like the slightly thinner sort of bowies that SOG knives make, they cost a lot but are beautiful knives and well made. I personaly prefer fixed blades, not that im allowed to carry them in the UK unless im in the middle of knowhere!



posted on Jul, 24 2011 @ 05:27 PM
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Ok, thanks for the responce. I found one of my dad's knives (died a few years ago and I'm still finding his stuff, we've moved twice sence then) It's a Buck 119. I was wondering if anyone knew anything about Bucks, seeing as the origional question has already been answered.



posted on Jul, 24 2011 @ 05:48 PM
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Originally posted by JDBlack
Ok, thanks for the responce. I found one of my dad's knives (died a few years ago and I'm still finding his stuff, we've moved twice sence then) It's a Buck 119. I was wondering if anyone knew anything about Bucks, seeing as the origional question has already been answered.


Made in the USA, 440 surgical stainless? If so it's a good all around knife. 440 stainless holds a good edge.



posted on Jul, 24 2011 @ 05:57 PM
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reply to post by JDBlack
 





posted on Jul, 24 2011 @ 05:58 PM
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Ontario Kukri.



posted on Jul, 25 2011 @ 12:36 AM
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I carry a buck 110 folder.best knife I own .
also have a nice machetti for anything else
chop wood build a shelter..short sword if needed !



posted on Jul, 25 2011 @ 06:30 AM
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reply to post by JDBlack
 


Hi there JD. Just thought I would throw this out there as well. Go to the Survival Radio Show's YouTube channel for some more information by Semperfortis on knives and such. It was interesting and helpful to me at least. Here's the link: ATS Survival Show YouTube Channel



posted on Jul, 26 2011 @ 10:32 PM
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I read this on a primitive life forum...

Find an old sawmill blade. Cut a knife blank with a full tang out of it. Single-side sharpen one side, quenching it often to not lose the temper. Then, take the knife and heat it for an hour at 350. Take it out, let it cool, and do it again.

Old mill blades are 1092 steel - modern knife steel. By keeping cool when sharpening, you don't ruin the temper. By heating it twice, you can up the rockwell hardness up to 56 on a good blade.

Put a bone or antler handle on it (I also heard if you boil the bone/antler first, it softens enough to shove the tang into the core and the cooling will adhere the material to the tang... so you don't have to pin the handle on afterwards) and you have a cool, functional knife that is made of tried and true steel.



posted on Jul, 26 2011 @ 11:38 PM
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I watched all of Semper's knife vids. I have a fairly good group in the INCB including a nice 3 pc, butcher and filet set with small bone saw. And of course a Case hatchet/knife combo in there. Super nice heavy duty sharpener so I dont have to sit next to a rock all day before i'm sharp again.

But I did it. Must have been those damn vids.

Sprung for a cold steel standard bushman. My trapping and snaring kill stick amounted to a butterfly knife and wire so its going to fill in nicely and take away some of the ghetto feel I had going on. Right tool for the right job now. If I think it will hold up, I will order a second one. If not I will get the Bowie Bushman to go with it. If you have done much trapping or snaring you know that you often find pissed off animals waiting, so an 8 foot shaft can help keep things on the down low and quiet like. Same for encountering wild dogs and other predators who might want a bite of you, when you cant be firing a weapon.

I also am going to toss my cheap danielson frog spear tips and find some heavy duty welded tips that will last with lots of use. You would be surprised at what sorts of foods can be collected with a good trident,rope and shaft.



posted on Jul, 27 2011 @ 02:04 PM
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After months of research, from a really unbiased point of view, I decided on this utility blade...



I like the western handle of this one, matched to that Kuhkri blade style. It works great on dried old wood too.



posted on Jul, 27 2011 @ 02:19 PM
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Originally posted by clintdelicious
I think its good to have a leatherman or something with pliers and also a good fixed blade with a real functional blade shape like a bowie. I really like the slightly thinner sort of bowies that SOG knives make, they cost a lot but are beautiful knives and well made. I personaly prefer fixed blades, not that im allowed to carry them in the UK unless im in the middle of knowhere!


Wow, you can't even carry knives over there? That sucks.



posted on Jul, 27 2011 @ 03:49 PM
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I have the ultimate knife. I carry a 12 inch stationary blade with jagged edges on the opposite side of the blade. Inside the handles are the sharpenners,fishing string, some nylon string used for catching small game and a small glass 1 inch magnifyer in the blade itself for starting fires and the shiney blade can be used for signaling. I made them myself for the all in one survival tool. Trust me, this knife can open any metal can around. It can saw wood up to 5 inch dia, helpful when making a shelter or cutting brush,start fires, cut meat, protection and it is balanced to throw. It is soo sharp, you can shave with it. The end is flat and is threaded into the handle and can be used as a hammer or a blunt tool. Trust me, if you see someone with two of these in his or her hands, you might want to run. The leather case has a loop on it so you can attach it to a 2 inch belt if you have one. I know for a fact that this would be rambo's favorite knife.
When your in the woods, trust me, you want to carry as less as possible because of space issues, since you might be on the move. Want to know about the AXE.



posted on Jul, 27 2011 @ 05:00 PM
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The handles is the unique thing about this, it is threaded on both sides and can be used as a storage place inside and can be extended by connecting and has a grip on ,so you don't slip. Extensions are solid steel with threads on. You can connect a small axe, hammer, screwdrivers, use as a small cro bar and wrenches all in one. Adapters are in the handle. Do not ask me how i would do this, it is my invention to get it all to work in one tool.
It is really not as heavy as you might think. Also, if i gave a pic it would give it away, SO NO.



posted on Jul, 27 2011 @ 11:28 PM
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reply to post by cloaked4u
 

Mite be nice if someone built a survival knife that had 3/4 pipe threads in the handle .you could screw on a piece of pipe and have a lance.



posted on Jul, 28 2011 @ 07:36 PM
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Check out bladeforums.com for some good knife advice.

Alot of information regarding various knife steels and blade types.



posted on Jul, 28 2011 @ 08:03 PM
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Originally posted by MagoSA
I read this on a primitive life forum...

Find an old sawmill blade. Cut a knife blank with a full tang out of it. Single-side sharpen one side, quenching it often to not lose the temper. Then, take the knife and heat it for an hour at 350. Take it out, let it cool, and do it again.

Old mill blades are 1092 steel - modern knife steel. By keeping cool when sharpening, you don't ruin the temper. By heating it twice, you can up the rockwell hardness up to 56 on a good blade.

Put a bone or antler handle on it (I also heard if you boil the bone/antler first, it softens enough to shove the tang into the core and the cooling will adhere the material to the tang... so you don't have to pin the handle on afterwards) and you have a cool, functional knife that is made of tried and true steel.
awesome tip,. thank you



posted on Jul, 28 2011 @ 08:22 PM
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I've personally never liked the term "survival knife", (what are you trying to survive?) I think it's more of a marketing term than anything else. Most people envision a Rambo blade with everything but the kitchen sink located under a compass topped handle. Using the term "survival knife" is like using the term "survival gun" they're both simply tools afterall.

There is no magic knife, my EDC folder may end up being my survival knife depending on the circumstances. To me a survival knife is a field knife with atleast a 6" full tang blade, something I can baton with and use for self defense if need be. While it may excell in those areas it would be too small for clearing brush & too big & ungainly for any type of woodworking.

Some people picture a fighting knife as the ultimate tool, others picture a multitool to MacGuyver their way to safety. I think what you need is a tool box. You should have a multitool, a folder, a fighting knife, a field knife, a machete and a small hatchet or camp axe, like an estwing. Different tools for different jobs.

[atsimg]http://files.abovetopsecret.com/images/member/a77f12f284a5.jpg[/atsimg]

[atsimg]http://files.abovetopsecret.com/images/member/fc59f6dfd066.jpg[/atsimg]

edit on 28-7-2011 by EyesWideShut because: pics




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