The Beauty of Waves and the Riding of Creation

The Beauty of Waves and the Riding of Creation

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Being a surfer for twenty five years and being away from the ocean for the last ten, I have a hole in my life in the present.

That hole is the absence of a hole, the hole that appears inside a breaking wave.

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We call it a tube or a barrel. When a wave breaks “perfectly”, it is every surfers mission to be inside the vortex created as the wave explodes from deep to shallow water.

The interesting thing is that although this looks dangerous, being there leaves you with a feeling of absolute bliss and it is strangely comforting.

Another strange phenomenon that occurs is the distinct feeling of time slowing down. I have always thought about this and why this could happen.

The Case of the Fibonacci Spirals as the observed effect of Creation

I came across Quantum Atom Theory and the Fibonacci spiral.

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This diagram could explain the forces involved in a breaking wave, in fact they are on an atomic level but can it be applied to ocean waves. I like to think it can because deep down I believe there is a constant that applies from the smallest observable phenomenon to the largest.

A wave travels relatively uninterrupted as it travels through the ocean, gathering energy as it goes along. When a wave hits the shore, the wave breaks.

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If we see the spiral source originating at the point of where the waves energy is broken it starts to through its energy out from the wave, creating a form we can see.

We see this in nature in all sorts of places and you have seen many pictures showing this spiral formation. I am now seeing this in a breaking wave.

[atsimg]http://files.abovetopsecret.com/images/member/735077705c10.jpg[/atsimg]

It is like a brief, explosive creation. However for perfect form it needs the right ingredients, the right interruption to break the wave perfectly, before it disappears into chaos and interacts with shoreline.

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Now to ride that wave and place yourself within that vortex of creation you are riding the plane of creation a special place that gives you many different sensations that we can probably get in other places but here we can see it in our dimension.

does this , would this produce the feeling of time slowing?

[atsimg]http://files.abovetopsecret.com/images/member/ac792d048b3f.jpg[/atsimg]

I hope that makes sense?

I would love some input about this form anyone who knows more of physics and people with open minds…

The ancient Hawaiians learned a thousand years ago how to ride the energy of a storm. An open ocean swell can travel thousands of miles from the storm that generated it before it approaches shallow waters. The farther it travels the more organized the wave train becomes, forming groups of waves referred to as sets. A surfer learns to judge these sets, knowing that the waves may comes in groups of three or four or five. The timing between sets can be very regular at the strongest part of wave train, the surfer knows that he only has to wait 5 minutes (or whatever) between the time the last wave of the set and first of the next arrives.

As the swell reaches shallower waters the circular motion gets distorted, the bottom of the wave starts to drag on the bottom of the sea and slow down while the top of the wave maintains its energy. This also causes the wave to increase in height. At some point the wave becomes too steep and the top topples over. If the sea bottom has gradually shallowed the top of the wave gently slides down the face of the wave. But, if the bottom has come up quickly, the top of the wave is going far faster than the bottom and pitches out into the trough of the wave forming the hollow cavity known as the tube. The place where a surfer can ride completely surrounded by water yet be untouched by it.

With the energy born in the violence of a storm at sea our mother ocean provides a playground where a surfer can flash across her fluid face.

[edit on 4/18/2010 by Phage]

great thread, really enjoyed it.

the second to last picture especially, with the sand being kicked up by the wave, reminds me alot of pictures taken in space. Just block out the right side and it looks identical to shots taken of the newly forming systems and stars.

Man that is awesome. I swear I am gonna learn to surf now. I mean I've never tried before, but I will now. SnF

sorry I'm no physics guy, dude

You mention the perception of time slowing - this is not an adrenaline rush, say what I experience on a superbike? During crashes many people including myself experience the same thing.

But I have another idea on what it may be; cavity structure effect

How much of this is pseudo science and how much is truth I suppose can only be found out with experimentation. However CSE could be entireley related to the time dilation effect inside a wave.

Great photos, the way you talk about surfing, it makes me want to try it out too

Not sure about the time slowing down thing but it may be down to your perseption of time.

reply to post by 2theC


Great thread, the first picture reminds of the shape of our galaxy minus the pure energy core, beautiful, S&F for you, have never surfed but wish I would have back in the day...

reply to post by Phage


thanks for the Vid Phage, it gives a nice little appreciation of the visuals!

but there is something else that just cant be captured by camera

Originally posted by phi1618
great thread, really enjoyed it.

the second to last picture especially, with the sand being kicked up by the wave, reminds me alot of pictures taken in space. Just block out the right side and it looks identical to shots taken of the newly forming systems and stars.

Yeh i thought that too,
or a newly formed embryo?

reply to post by GhostR1der


thanks ghost rider, i will have a look atr that when i get home from work
too much for me right now !

there is probably adrenaline involved but there seems to be no fear of danger if that makes sense, the feeling is just joy maybe almost love!

[edit on 18-4-2010 by 2theC]

Aquarius1,
Tykynos and Dragonsmusic...

Its never too late to catch a wave!!! thats what keeps me enthused while i live in the mounatins.

seeya out there one day!

Damn Fibonacci shows up everywhere you look.

Quite common in human psychology as well if you have ever bothered to look at price action in financial markets.

38.2 , 61.8 and 161.8 show up on price retracement levels a little too often. Most say it is done that way because it is a self fulfilling prophecy. But few have really taken the work to see the psychology behind those numbers IMO. I think it is most likely a good combination of both.

reply to post by 2theC


Thanks for the encouragement, I grew up on the water and did a lot of water skiing and swiming...now I am retired and don't think I will be surfing anytime soon, at least not in this lifetime.

a couple more awesome wave pictures...

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[atsimg]http://files.abovetopsecret.com/images/member/1cc116c9f236.jpeg[/atsimg]

Great thread!

I am a [former] surfer (former because I have not in years). I miss it greatly. I was never good enough to compete or even have a chance at a tube. But good enough to have super fun!

Great pictures and information - thanks for the thread!
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reply to post by greeneyedleo


thanks Leo with the green eyes

once a surfer always a surfer.

You may not have experienced a tube( lets' say yet!), but you were in the mix!


In the tube.

Its a funny thing, its like life. Like a time and space metaphor.

To get in one you have to relinquish all your fears, you have to let go and let the wave embrace you.There is danger if you lean too far to the left or to far to the right, too far forward or too far backward.

You find a trim, a balance within a creation being created at that precise moment. behind you is a collapsing chaotic mess.

In front of you is is a light.

a curtain of water falling on one side a wall of water rising on the other. Both as powerful as each other.

but you are safe.