Any bowhunters here?

I managed to pick up a used bow and arrow set at a garage sale the other day.

It's this right here.

Today I got to try it for the first time.

I was really impressed by how much power I could get into the arrows once I got the hang of drawing and firing!

At one point I missed my targed ang got the arrow stuck into a fence post. I had to dig the tip out (mind you this was without the razors inserted.)

I can definitely see how a bow and arrow might just as, if not more, damaging than certain firearm calibers in the hands of a trained archer.

So. Anyway. I really enjoyed what I was doing and will probably spend more time with archery.

Are there any bowhunters here on ATS that could give me advice?

I will need to buy more arrows soon, does anyone have any reccomendations?

Can anyone point me to a reference on how to change the bowstring without killing myself, if needed, and how to know when to do this?

Any tips on firing in general, or links to online instructional videos?

Thanks in advance ATS!

reply to post by asmeone2


On a compound bow there should be two big bolts on the front of the bow that tension the arms. On mine(Hoyt) they have a hex key fitting, yours may be different. To remove the bow string, untension these bolts, eventually you should be able to remove the string without a problem.

I have no advice on technique, everyones tends to be a little different.

If you havent bought an armguard yet, buy one, its a must. A short slip in concentration can leave some nasty welts on your left arm.

Arrow choice is based on what you plan on doing. If you plan on hunting, use carbon shaft arrows. I use wooden shafts once while hunting, they got wet and wouldnt fly well afterwards. If you can, get carbon arrow shafts that have screw in tips, after a kill its easier to remove the shaft, and you can re-use them easily.

If you just plan on zapping targets in the backyard, stick with cheaper wooden shaft target arrows. If you get serious you may consider fletching your own arrows. My father does this, he has a traditional Eastern Mongol horsebow, designed to be fired from horseback.

A bow, like a firearm is a tool. Depending on what you are doing, you fill your toolbox accordingly.

Archery is lots of fun even if you don't hunt. Buy a good book on the basics of archery and compound bows. There is a lot of good detail in some inexpensive books or even free on a sportsmans web site or googling articles. The time invested will really pay off.
I don't know if this thread will do so great on a conspiracy site, but if you were to shoot down a UFO with a bow and arrow..... lots of flags and stars there buddy.
Have fun.

Originally posted by Gaderel
reply to post by asmeone2

 

On a compound bow there should be two big bolts on the front of the bow that tension the arms. On mine(Hoyt) they have a hex key fitting, yours may be different. To remove the bow string, untension these bolts, eventually you should be able to remove the string without a problem.

I have no advice on technique, everyones tends to be a little different.

If you havent bought an armguard yet, buy one, its a must. A short slip in concentration can leave some nasty welts on your left arm.

Arrow choice is based on what you plan on doing. If you plan on hunting, use carbon shaft arrows. I use wooden shafts once while hunting, they got wet and wouldnt fly well afterwards. If you can, get carbon arrow shafts that have screw in tips, after a kill its easier to remove the shaft, and you can re-use them easily.

If you just plan on zapping targets in the backyard, stick with cheaper wooden shaft target arrows. If you get serious you may consider fletching your own arrows. My father does this, he has a traditional Eastern Mongol horsebow, designed to be fired from horseback.

A bow, like a firearm is a tool. Depending on what you are doing, you fill your toolbox accordingly.

DON'T JACK WITH THE LIMB BOLTS...

ARM GUARDS ARE FOR HOLDING BACK BAGGY CLOTHING...

ARM GUARDS ARE A HANDICAP FOR POOR SHOOTING FORM...

PLEASE DON'T POST DANGEROUS AND POOR ADVICE...

I am an avid archery hunter and have killed many deer with my compound bow and have aswell set up many bows for friends and relatives. If there is anything specific you would like to know just post it up here. The last deer I shot was on Oct. 1st of this year and it was the largest buck I have killed to date with my bow. It dressed out at 158 lbs. and was a wonderful eight point.

The bow you linked to is a childs bow. It does not have enough force to kill a deer. In my state you can only hunt with a bow of 40 lbs draw weight or more. If you want to get serious with this you will need a better bow. My bow draws at 75 lbs and causes blow through shots on any animal i have shot. I almost never recover my carbon arrows intact after shooting a deer.

Changing a string requires either 2 people and a ratchet strap or a bow press. It would be better to go to a pro shop and have them assist you in changing the string rather than risk personal injury to yourself or others and or damage your equipment trying this on your own. Backing off the limb bolts will cause the bow to explode in your hands. The bolts are always under pressure until the string has been removed and the tension of either the ratchet strap or bow press has been relieved. The bolts are used to adjust the draw weight of the bow not change the string.

Arrows are very important. NEVER USE WOOD OR FIBERGLASS ARROWS IN A COMPOUND BOW THAT HAS 30 OR MORE POUNDS DRAW WEIGHT. They will explode. Carbons are good for flat trajectories but are more fragile than aluminum arrows but are straighter and fly faster. The arrows must be matched to your bows draw weight and draw length, you need to know both of these in order to work with your bow. According to your link this bow has a 26 inch draw length. This length might not work for you. The length of the arrow is important and is relative to the arrow rest you use, the spline strenth of the arrow, the draw weight of the bow and the weight of the tip.

Proper form is everything in archery. You must learn how to stand and hold your bow right. Holding you bow right will solve the problem of getting your arm slapped. You will also want a peep sight on your string and learn your anchor point so as to create consistency.

There is alot to learn so I would recommend finding a person close to you that shoots a bow and learn from them or go to a pro shop and ask plenty of questions.




[edit on 9-11-2008 by LeaderOfProgress]

reply to post by LeaderOfProgress


Bad advice you say, rightio.

My Hoyt compound doesnt "Explode" when I back the arms off, nor did I require a second person, or a Press, or a squad of proshop enthusiasts. But if it makes you feel safe buddy, you can feel free to do your thing. I disassemble my bow for easier storage when its not in use, not once has it ever spontaneously detonated.

Arm guards are good practice to use always, especially if you are shooting from a non standard position, from scrub or cover. Its skin insurance, I like my skin, it covers my body. Not everyone assumes a match position before every shot.

Wooden and fibreglass arrows exploding from a compound? What a crock! Ive used everything through my compound, even my own fletched wooden arrows, never had a single one "explode", implode, warp space and time or cause a nuclear detonation.

Explosions seem to be your theme today. Very impressive.

Originally posted by Gaderel
My Hoyt compound doesnt "Explode" when I back the arms off, nor did I require a second person, or a Press

I know my 70lb Martin compound will if the limb bolts come out while the string is still on. I have to use a press for mine.

Maybe depends on the make and model, I'm only familiar with mine.

Best take it into a shop first and they will tell you the do's and don't of your particular model.

Originally posted by Gaderel
reply to post by LeaderOfProgress

 

Bad advice you say, rightio.

My Hoyt compound doesnt "Explode" when I back the arms off, nor did I require a second person, or a Press, or a squad of proshop enthusiasts. But if it makes you feel safe buddy, you can feel free to do your thing. I disassemble my bow for easier storage when its not in use, not once has it ever spontaneously detonated.

Arm guards are good practice to use always, especially if you are shooting from a non standard position, from scrub or cover. Its skin insurance, I like my skin, it covers my body. Not everyone assumes a match position before every shot.

Wooden and fibreglass arrows exploding from a compound? What a crock! Ive used everything through my compound, even my own fletched wooden arrows, never had a single one "explode", implode, warp space and time or cause a nuclear detonation.

Explosions seem to be your theme today. Very impressive.

I'm just calling it how it is so get offended pissed off or what ever just don't give bad advice. I am very experienced at this and KNOW what I am talking about but please don't believe me or the thousands of other archers out there. Oh and don't believe all the sites out there that discuss bows nor the pros that shoot them. Hell the will tell you the same things on any new bows instruction manual. Quit showing your ignorance.

[edit on 9-11-2008 by LeaderOfProgress]

read it on the internet. Must be true.

Your set of statements just dont gel with my experience or my equipment, that doesnt make me ignorant pal. My wooden arrows dont explode in my compounds, or in my 100lb long bow. What the hell are your wooden arrows made from that they explode in a compound??? balsa?

Even olympic archers use arm guards. If it ruined their shooting form, they wouldnt win bloody medals would they. Its basic safety equipment, and a no brainer.

backing off the limbs on my compound doesnt make the damn thing explode.

If your "how it is" generalization is correct, I should already be missing an eye from bow detonation, would go starving in the woods from missing my targets, and should have arrow fragments in my chest from arrow explosions.

Quit showing your arrogance.

Bow hunting is fun and simple. I’ve hunted with compound bows for 30 years and the new bows continue to amaze me with new technology. Go to a proshop for fitting IE: correct bow and draw length. Then you can decide to buy from him or shop around for the best deal. The best bow for you will be different that what your buddy will use, I can almost guarantee it…

1st and foremost, good form and consistency is key to bow hunting.

2nd, Paper tuning helped me achieve the most accuracy ensuring the bow was releasing the arrow straight and true. Paper tuning is easy. Make a picture frame of wooden yard sticks and tape news paper to the frame. Place the frame on legs or stakes and shoot an arrow through the paper 5 feet away to see how the arrow travels when released from the bow. You should see just a hole; if the arrow rips the paper diagonally then tuning is required. The larger the rip and the direction tell you how an adjustment needs to be made (Adjust opposite to the rip, if the rip goes to the right adjust left). Tuning is done by elevation and windage adjustments on the rest. I have an over draw rest that is fully adjustable but you may need to just get it close if you use a standard rest.

3rd practice, practice, practice…



[edit on 9-11-2008 by StingrayCrazy]

[edit on 9-11-2008 by StingrayCrazy]

[edit on 9-11-2008 by StingrayCrazy]

Wow great posts in here.
Some people saying how fun archery is, even if you dont hunt.
Others explaining that a bow is just a tool.
All good points.
Fact is if you got dropped in a forest, one of the first things you might want to make is a bow.
Just to make it easier to eat.
I have been bow hunting since I was 7 and im 32.
I have had all sorts.
Some for messing around for archery clubs others for serious hunting.
Also had a couple of crossbows.
Currently have a Horton Yukon SL 20/20 rifle scope.
Its good for about anything really but its a crossbow kind of cheating.
Depends what you put on the end of the bolt/arrow really for what you want to hunt.
Post more storys mates.

Paper Tuning your bow...

This is a good artical that goes into more detail.

Thanks for the advice everyone.

What I have right now is just a basic fiberglass arrow from Walmart. It says Wolverine 5060.

I know it's a child's bow but it is good for practicing; I wouldn' want to invest the money into a professional hunting crossbow before I know what I'm doing.

My welts are huge so I think an armguard is a must... at least until I know how to shoot properly.

Originally posted by Gaderel
read it on the internet. Must be true.

Your set of statements just dont gel with my experience or my equipment, that doesnt make me ignorant pal. My wooden arrows dont explode in my compounds, or in my 100lb long bow. What the hell are your wooden arrows made from that they explode in a compound??? balsa?

Even olympic archers use arm guards. If it ruined their shooting form, they wouldnt win bloody medals would they. Its basic safety equipment, and a no brainer.

backing off the limbs on my compound doesnt make the damn thing explode.

If your "how it is" generalization is correct, I should already be missing an eye from bow detonation, would go starving in the woods from missing my targets, and should have arrow fragments in my chest from arrow explosions.

Quit showing your arrogance.

How come everyone else on this post but you is backing up what I am saying? It has nothing to do with the "internet" what i am saying is to look at the bow manufactures websites and see what they say. I promise there is no conspiracy in the bow industry as far as product usage. As far as a 100 lbs draw long bow yea right. Most men I know have a hard time pulling back my 75 lbs draw Compound. I'll research if there has ever been a 100 lbs draw long bow. I am thinking I won't find one. So here better yet since you are such the pro how about you go and get a friend to take a picture of the scale at draw measuring your bow's draw weight. My information is backed up by concrete facts. I was even nice enough to not bring up the whole "water on wood arrow" junk that you posted. Modern wood arrows DO NOT warp when they get wet. Now the fletching, if real feathers, will become ineffective if it is allowed exposure to moisture without weather treating it. I have several friend that like to use what we call stick bows (long bows, and recurve bows) with wooden arrows. The reason they work with those types of bows Is because of their low poundage (usuall 65 lbs or less) and the fact that the bow has less stored energy than a compound bow. The compound bow is more violent in its energy transfer to the arrow. QUIT BEING A TROLL AND GO FIND SOME THING ELSE TO TRY TO BRING DOWN. I am not trying to be mean to you, you just don't know what you are talking about. The poster above is spot on with the paper tuning. Not only does it make for a very consitent bow but it can also show you if there is something wrong with the bow. I once found out that I had a crack in the top limb while paper tuning. No matter what I did the hole was always tearing high, so I started to look my bow over and found a crack in the upper limb. Thanks to PSE's lifetime warranty I know have a Factory Custom bow. They replaced my limbs with the new style and swaped my composite limb pockets with the new milled aluminum ones. They even repainted my riser where my hand had worn the paint to the metal, then they replaced the string, all of this free of charge.

Originally posted by asmeone2
Thanks for the advice everyone.

What I have right now is just a basic fiberglass arrow from Walmart. It says Wolverine 5060.

I know it's a child's bow but it is good for practicing; I wouldn' want to invest the money into a professional hunting crossbow before I know what I'm doing.

My welts are huge so I think an armguard is a must... at least until I know how to shoot properly.

Those aren't fiberglass they are Carbon arrows, in fact they are the same brand that I am using. Damn you Walmart for having the best price. anyways the reason you are having string contact on your arm is because of bad form. Lets put it to you this way if you do get an arm guard and continue to contact it you will loose any consistency. Fletching contact and string contact with any part of you or your bow will hurt you accuracy period. If you hold the bow right there is no way you will get the string to hit your arm.

[edit on 9-11-2008 by LeaderOfProgress]

As one of the above posters, I also shoot a Hoyt. It's pretty old now, but I can hit a dinner plate at 60 yards with it. I can put 5 arrows into a tennis ball at 35 yards.


I would say that the bow you got is good for some target practice, and back yard fun.

One thing that is important, is to have your bow's draw length matched up to your body. A 26" draw is pretty short. Most adults have between 28" and 32" draw. If it's too short you will not be able to have a comfortable position at full draw. Same with too long.

I would not recommend carbon arrows for you yet, they are way more expensive than aluminum, and a bow with a 25 lb. draw you just don't need them. If there is an archery shop in your town, you should pay them a visit, if they have an indoor shooting range, they will be able to set you up properly.

Bow hunting is a lot of fun, and very difficult compared to hunting with a gun. You have to be very sneaky to have a chance of success. You could probably go rabbit hunting with that bow that you have, but I would not attempt big game hunting with it. You need at least 55-60 lbs of draw to humanely kill a deer or elk (in my opinion). It takes that to get the velocity you need. Archery technology has dramatically increased in the last 5 years or so. They have some really badass stuff nowdays.

Good luck, and have fun with your new toy!

One of my favorite advancements in archery technology in the last few years has been the limbsaver on the limb vibration dampener. They so rock for such a simple and cheap addon. I was very impressed with them once I got my bow back from the warranty repair. When i first purchased my bow I just installed limbsavers without even shooting it first. Well when I got it back from the factory with new lims of course, they couldn't stick the limbsavers back on. Trust me I tried every type of double sided tape and they wont stay past a couple of shots once they have been removed. Well for about a week I shot it with out the limbsavers. Then I got some new ones and Wow what a difference they made in the vibration and sound.

reply to post by asmeone2


If you have a fiberglass bow with a 28-29" draw, and you practice with it, and you become very good and very comfortable with it - then you drive on.

For millennia, men have done far more with far less.

Techies have some impressive archery equipment, and the accuracy is phenomenal. The equipment can compensate for a lack of skill.

If a man knows his weapon, then he knows his weapon and will rely more on skill than with all these gadgets. Give me skill over gadgets any day. Because the day may come when your skill will be just about all you have.

And if you enjoy it, you'll probably love it. And any man who loves something will get very, very good at it.

The equipment will only carry you so far.

The hard part, and fun part is up to you.

Every owners manual for a compound bow I have ever seen . Explicitly states do not use wood shafts . At most archery shops they will discourage wood use for compounds . The reason behind it is physics going from 0 velocity to full velocity in a compound bow is 3 times as fast as a recurve creating far greater stress on a arrow shaft . The extra forces can cause splintering or splitting .

With wood shaft arrow diameter and weight is dependent on bow weight . Smaller dia = faster larger = more penetration. I have read where if you use a wood arrow in a compound bow you need to go to the next bow weight arrow size to be safe . Like using a 50 lbs arrow in a 30 compound and examine the wood shaft very closely for cross grain or angular grain seek nock to tip grain .

Which again raises another question . Why ? Your penetration will increase but velocity decreases bows being short range as it is .Using a wood arrow of the safe size will shoot shorter than a proper sized carbon or aluminum arrow. The aluminum I feel is the best choice you dont have to worry about nicks or dents which can cause a carbon and wood arrow to shatter . Which is the real reason of not using wood in a compound bow .

To me archery is fun bow hunting is a blast why risk arrow splinters threw my left arm which would certainly ruin my fun .

I have used wood arrows but only in a recurve or long bow .

To me using wood arrows in a compound bow is like the guy sitting reloading his own ammo and says heck if the bullet calls for 55 grains of powder heck 60 will make this thing fly . Well maybe if the gun is a bull barrel and 55 was the low side . but maybe the gun will blow up in his face also . There are usually reasons for not going against standard safety guidelines . These safety guidelines have been made to keep people from injury not just arbitrarily made up .

What ever you do have fun at your new sport of archery . Be safe and seek out a archery pro shop who can help you get the right arrow length and type for the shooting you are going to be doing ,

Originally posted by LeaderOfProgress


Those aren't fiberglass they are Carbon arrows, in fact they are the same brand that I am using. Damn you Walmart for having the best price. anyways the reason you are having string contact on your arm is because of bad form. Lets put it to you this way if you do get an arm guard and continue to contact it you will loose any consistency. Fletching contact and string contact with any part of you or your bow will hurt you accuracy period. If you hold the bow right there is no way you will get the string to hit your arm.

[edit on 9-11-2008 by LeaderOfProgress]

Yeah I agree. I just want something to protect my skin while I'm still learning.

reply to post by downtown436


There are a few archery ranges nearby. Once I get the hang of the basics I'll give them a shot.