posted on Aug, 28 2008 @ 08:51 PM
An anecdote. Ok, fair enough. I'll dig it up. And it was afterwards.
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www.LifeStation.com/Alert-ButtonLife Among the Ghosts of Banda Aceh
Kamboja Street is so close to the sea that the tsunami all but levelled it a year ago. Most of the fishermen's villas, with their red-tiled roofs,
fluted columns and verandahs, were shaved off the earth by the great cutthroat razor of water which stood over them, then sliced them from their
foundations.
Kamboja Street is so close to the sea that the tsunami all but levelled it a year ago. Most of the fishermen's villas, with their red-tiled roofs,
fluted columns and verandahs, were shaved off the earth by the great cutthroat razor of water which stood over them, then sliced them from their
foundations.
When, after three months, the Indonesians cleared the waist-high layer of mud, masonry, cars and corpses which covered Lampulo, the district of Banda
Aceh where Kamboja Street lies, there was nothing left of many homes except a faint border of sea-chewed brick and the tiling on the ground floor.
A year on, the first replacement house has only just begun to be built, by the American charity Care. Tents still border the street; some residents
have put up makeshift wooden dwellings. Electricity has been restored, but running water hasn't, and households drink and wash courtesy of wells and
giant yellow water tanks on corners, topped up by Oxfam.
If you hang out on Kamboja Street today, and get to know the people who live there, the weight of the obvious strikes you. Folk grumble mildly about
the pace of reconstruction, but the bleakness of missing houses is a distraction from the infinitely greater pain of missing people. The empty spaces
where buildings should be are easier to mend than the holes torn through families and hearts by sudden death on a scale seldom experienced by any
community.
Kamboja Street begins by the brown, narrow Aceh river, which meets the sea half a mile downstream. The mat of dead bodies and broken fishing boats
which choked it after the tsunami is a horrible memory, and working boats line its banks again.
Turn off the embankment road - still unrepaired from where the tsunami took bites out of it - and you're on the street. That's Samsiah's kiosk on
the right, and the rebuilt metal repair workshop after it belongs to her too. Grass and weeds now grow over where the houses used to be, and the
tarmac road is now a rough track.
You come to a little crossroads. On the left, some householders have pitched their grubby, sagging, once-white UNHCR tents on the left, on the
foundations of Yusran's house. Five died there, four of them children. On the right, another tent is pitched where Mali's house stood. At least nine
people were killed there, two of them children. After Mali's house, there are a couple of rough outlines of houses in the weeds, as if they were
demolished decades ago.
The first one belonged to Mustafa, the mobile fishmonger. He was killed along with most of the rest of his family, including four children.
On the left is Samsiah's house, not the original but a baroque hall of salvaged planks nailed together, like a giant beach hut, on the foundations of
the old. Samsiah's neighbour Harunabdullah, a tailor, lost his wife Nuraini, three children and two nephews. His neighbour Khairiah and her son were
also killed. Next door to the grassy outline of Khairiah's house is the remnant of Hassan's house - he died before the tsunami, which killed his
widow and two children. Next along was Manaf's house. Manaf survived, but his two teenage sons died. On the other side of the road the houses were
thinner; there's nothing there now.
And so it goes on, neighbour after neighbour. Next to Manaf, Iskander lost his wife and two children. Opposite, Hasriati died, along with five others.
Iskander's neighbour Mukhtar lost both parents; on the other side of the street, Muhammad Johan, a stallholder at the fish market, lost his wife and
daughter, while his 67-year-old neighbour, Kamariah, is the sole survivor of her household. She returned from Jakarta to find eight grandchildren, two
daughters and two sons-in-law dead. Between Kamariah's house and the home of Lely Abdullah at number 36, close to the end of the street, there used
to be 10 dwellings. 26 adults and six children from that little stretch of one street in Banda Aceh have been plucked away forever.
It was a young street, loud with children, with most of the houses built in the last couple of decades. Lely, a 46-year-old fisherman, watched the
families grow around him. He moved to Kamboja Street in 1980, finished his house in 1992 after two years' work, and became rich enough to own four
motorbikes.
"Before the tsunami, people were out on the street all day and all night, sitting and chatting," he said. "That's what I liked about it. There
were always children's birthday parties, and when somebody got married they invited a local singer for the party. There were all sorts of pedlars.
Especially selling toys for children, every day, every hour. The bicycle noodle guy used to come five times a day and at night all the houses would
turn on a light at the front. It was so busy before, with the fishmongers coming and going, the motorbikes, the cars. It's silent now."
Lely said he didn't believe in ghosts, but he doesn't like to stay in the house in the evenings. He goes down to the fishing port and sits in the
coffee shop till it's time to sleep. His wife Saudah and one of his sons died in the tsunami. His neighbour on his left is his brother Hasyiny; his
sister in law and two daughters were killed. Behind Lely's house, at number 41, his sister Ainal Mardiah, her husband and four of their children
died.
Lely's two surviving daughters, Naula Astuti and Nurwardiah, and his 18-year-old engineering student son Darman live with their ailing great aunt in
a room in temporary barracks an hour away by motorbike. Lely desperately wants to bring the remnants of the family back to Kamboja but can't until he
puts a roof on the house he has partly rebuilt with his own funds. He's run out of money and isn't sure whether or when Care will help. The US
megacharity is ploughing huge resources into the area but there are are so many organisational layers between Care and individuals that even after the
Guardian organised a meeting between senior officials and Lely, he wasn't much the wiser.
[edit on 8/28/2008 by jpm1602]