Land Rover pretender?

I was surprised that people are prepared to wait up to 357 days for a fake Land Rover!

I would buy a Range Rover P38 or an Ineos grenadier as opposed to a pretender.

You can’t even put 16 inch wheels on a pretender, imagine looking for an 22 inch tyre deep in the Aussie outback where every other maker uses 16 inch wheels.

m.youtube.com...

a reply to: robsmith

I have a 2001 Range Rover 4.6 HSE (P38) with the air suspension still intact and functional. It's a beast. I would not buy any Land Rover that was made after that year.

I have friends who's sons work at Landrover. There is a very massive backlog with thousands of vehicles waiting for chips and headlight units.

So is it called a pretender because their target audience is pretending to buy one...?

a reply to: tamusan
I had a p38 until eArly last year when both head gaskets failed. Plus the wife was in my back calling it a money pit.

Lo and behold, we just bought a Toyota Kruger/highlander hybrid. She actually admitted the Range Rover was a better car, driving position, visibility, chassis height.

I put a lot of work into the air suspension, I rebuilt the valve block, occassionally it went into fault mode, and dropped the car on it’s bump stops, though I had an eas reset kit,quick fix to reset it.

I do miss it. Though the prices if the defenders is nuts up to 190 thousand.

a reply to: lordcomac

Mostly with the prices of them, they will be toorak tractors, can’t imagine anyone shelling out 100k plus for it to be damaged on a bush track.

a reply to: robsmith
The air suspension has been the costliest for me as well. I replaced two sets of factory air bags in the first 10 years and had to replace the air compressor piston seal a few times before crafting one of my own that has proven to be more durable. I installed the Arnott air springs in 2011, a new valve block and compressor. These air springs have lasted longer than the factory ones and don't make the compressor work as hard, and I haven't had any fault modes since either. For me, the fault always came with a leaky air spring.

The immobilizer has been a pain from the beginning. Whenever the alarm is activated, there is always a chance that the immobilizer will come on whenever I later deactivate the alarm. I have to do the lock and unlock sequence in the keyhole on the door in order to turn the motor.