Broken Trunk Lock

I think it's broken, anyway. The key does not go all the way in, so I can't turn it. I managed to tap the key in with a small hammer once and got it to turn. I suppose I should have removed the lock then, but I figured it just needed a shot of lubricant. I think it may have a broken pin.

In any case, I can't open the trunk. I can't get in to the trunk from the back seat. I've called two locksmiths and when I tell them it's an 1983 K-car they are not interested.

A replacement lock is cheap enough. I figure my options are either try to drill the lock out or try to break the lock with a screwdriver and pipe wrench. Anyone have any suggestions or experience with either technique?

Thanks in advance.

I have drilled out a few locks, seems to open fine when the lock is in pieces!

I just used the biggest bit I had 1/4" or 3/8"ths or so, I then had to knock the bits out with a chisel to cut the rim of the lock that want drilled.

Hope you get to open it so you can properly hide the bodies!

a reply to: VictorVonDoom

Glue gun?

a reply to: Bigburgh

That's an interesting idea, but the key isn't broken in the lock. The key just won't go into the lock all the way. I suspect a pin is broken in the lock.

a reply to: VictorVonDoom

A Reliant K-car? The car that saved Chrysler because it used rubber bands on things like the hood release lever in order to make a car as cheaply as they can?

My Grandma had a navy blue w/ smurf blue interior, loved that car, it rode good.

In the time you took to make this thread you could have fixed it already, that's how cheaply made and easy to repair those cars are.

Go to Advance/Autozone/O'Reilly/NAPA, with a hammer and some chewed gum, pay the 0.99¢ for the replacement lock, pop out the old with the hammer, whack in the new one with the hammer, seal with the chewed gum. That's what the Chrysler dealership would do.

Good luck.

a reply to: VictorVonDoom

Cut a tennisball in half, stick a screwdriver through it, cup it over the lock, insert the screwdriver and twist it repeatedly and tap the tennis ball with a hammer. IF you hear metallic noises, keep doing it, the pins are jumping from the air pressure, it's like using a vibrating needle.

It will either open it or loosen the pins so you can give it another try with the original key.

This actually worked on my BMW everytime.

originally posted by: VictorVonDoom
a reply to: Bigburgh

That's an interesting idea, but the key isn't broken in the lock. The key just won't go into the lock all the way. I suspect a pin is broken in the lock.

Always a technicality lol... I'm out of ideas.

***Warning: West Virginia Red Necks Ahead***

Wait a second….

1983 K-Car?

Pics or it didn’t happen

It's ats, do something cool at least.
I'm going with liquid nitrogen and a center punch.
Kinda like this, but on the tumbler obviously.
Any harder impacts to the lock will prob dent the hood.

a reply to: VictorVonDoom

I must ask...when you say that you can't get into your trunk from the back seat, is it because you can't get the seat removed, or because the structure behind the seat physically prevents you from getting back there?

a reply to: VictorVonDoom
Try a new key or a different spare key if you have one.
I had an ignition lock on my truck that was hard to
turn, and would not spring back from the start position.
I bought a new lock cylinder (a PITA to replace), but
at the last moment I decided to try my spare key.
The spare key worked great, and I have not had any
problems since. So It was a worn key that was
giving me grief.

originally posted by: ThatDamnDuckAgain
a reply to: VictorVonDoom

Cut a tennisball in half, stick a screwdriver through it, cup it over the lock, insert the screwdriver and twist it repeatedly and tap the tennis ball with a hammer. IF you hear metallic noises, keep doing it, the pins are jumping from the air pressure, it's like using a vibrating needle.

It will either open it or loosen the pins so you can give it another try with the original key.

This actually worked on my BMW everytime.

Just wow. I bet nobody else knew that trick.

You did it again girl

a reply to: Trueman
To my defense I have to add that this is a known trick among BMW drivers!

originally posted by: RazorV66
Wait a second….

1983 K-Car?

Pics or it didn’t happen

I've done a lot of work on it. Runs smooth, quiet, almost like new. It even has a little pep in it, even though it's only rated at 86 hp. I need to get it painted and then I'll redo the interior in a two tone red and white scheme. No dents or dings. I took it up to the hardware store today and a woman ran up to me and wanted to buy it.

originally posted by: ThatDamnDuckAgain
a reply to: VictorVonDoom

Cut a tennisball in half, stick a screwdriver through it, cup it over the lock, insert the screwdriver and twist it repeatedly and tap the tennis ball with a hammer. IF you hear metallic noises, keep doing it, the pins are jumping from the air pressure, it's like using a vibrating needle.

It will either open it or loosen the pins so you can give it another try with the original key.

This actually worked on my BMW everytime.

Another interesting idea, but I don't think a tennis ball would fit over the badge covering the keyhole. Maybe a plunger ...

I have a spare key. I'll give that a try before I drill.

originally posted by: SlapMonkey
a reply to: VictorVonDoom

I must ask...when you say that you can't get into your trunk from the back seat, is it because you can't get the seat removed, or because the structure behind the seat physically prevents you from getting back there?

Behind the back seat is the storage area for the convertible top. Behind that is insulation and the metal behind that has holes maybe big enough to get your arms in. I might be able to reach the bolts holding the locking mechanism if I used about 3 ft. of extensions on a ratchet. Drilling seems like less work.

a reply to: VictorVonDoom

Admittedly I had no clue how your lock looks and I used it on the front doors. It could work though, maybe give it a minute or two before you finally grab the HSS-G.

You probably need to exchange the lock anyways if the spare doesn't work, it's damaged inside like you already wrote.

originally posted by: EdisonintheFM
a reply to: VictorVonDoom

A Reliant K-car? The car that saved Chrysler because it used rubber bands on things like the hood release lever in order to make a car as cheaply as they can?

My Grandma had a navy blue w/ smurf blue interior, loved that car, it rode good.

In the time you took to make this thread you could have fixed it already, that's how cheaply made and easy to repair those cars are.

Go to Advance/Autozone/O'Reilly/NAPA, with a hammer and some chewed gum, pay the 0.99¢ for the replacement lock, pop out the old with the hammer, whack in the new one with the hammer, seal with the chewed gum. That's what the Chrysler dealership would do.

Good luck.

This one is a Dodge 400. They made them in 82 and 83. Pretty much the same K-car platform as the LeBaron, 600, Reliant, etc.

But you're right, pretty much a cheaply made POS when it was new. Add to that PITA early 80s emission controls, so many vacuum lines I had to buy six different colors of tubing to keep them straight, and a finicky "computer" controlled 2bbl carburetor. Whoever designed this car had the philosophy, "Never use an electricity when you can use vacuum."

That aside, if I could have just hammered the lock out I would have.

originally posted by: VictorVonDoom

originally posted by: EdisonintheFM
a reply to: VictorVonDoom

A Reliant K-car? The car that saved Chrysler because it used rubber bands on things like the hood release lever in order to make a car as cheaply as they can?

My Grandma had a navy blue w/ smurf blue interior, loved that car, it rode good.

In the time you took to make this thread you could have fixed it already, that's how cheaply made and easy to repair those cars are.

Go to Advance/Autozone/O'Reilly/NAPA, with a hammer and some chewed gum, pay the 0.99¢ for the replacement lock, pop out the old with the hammer, whack in the new one with the hammer, seal with the chewed gum. That's what the Chrysler dealership would do.

Good luck.

This one is a Dodge 400. They made them in 82 and 83. Pretty much the same K-car platform as the LeBaron, 600, Reliant, etc.

But you're right, pretty much a cheaply made POS when it was new. Add to that PITA early 80s emission controls, so many vacuum lines I had to buy six different colors of tubing to keep them straight, and a finicky "computer" controlled 2bbl carburetor. Whoever designed this car had the philosophy, "Never use an electricity when you can use vacuum."

That aside, if I could have just hammered the lock out I would have.

I don't think they were bad rides, Grandma never had much problem with hers. She put a lot of time and miles on it. Very few mechanical issues...huh, I want to say she only had AC issues, freon leak or something, temp gauge whatever it was it was under a couple hundred bucks to repair it.

I'd buy a used one today, but I'd replace all the rubber bands and what not.

The trunk key may be too worn or slightly twisted or bent, try one of the extras first to see if that works.

If you can get in the trunk, you can most often get a trunk open from the inside using needle nose pliers or a screwdriver. those old style locks are only ten to twelve bucks with two keys and easy to change..