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Anyone good with electrical? Will this work?

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posted on Dec, 19 2017 @ 01:45 PM
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a reply to: TinySickTears

flywheel ring gear = detached from flywheel
]
most are simply " shrink fitted " on [ chill flywheel and heat ringerar to 150c - and fit - allow to cool ]

on SOME whicles - its possible to weld the ringear back onto fluwheel - without removing gearbox

as alway YMMV - but anny other problem SHOULD have been rectified by new motor // solenoid

and broken // missing teeth on flywheel - GENERALLY devolopes over time - not just " i came to it one moringing and ............. "



posted on Dec, 19 2017 @ 01:46 PM
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a reply to: rickymouse

01 Saturn sl1
The flywheel is ok. At least in this position.
It has never sounded like anything was wrong as far as teeth on teeth



posted on Dec, 19 2017 @ 01:55 PM
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First thing, I would check the car's battery with a pile or if you don't have one, digital voltmeter. If what you say is correct, that the solenoid isn't engaging or the mechanical bendix isn't thrown out when the starter is turning, its a possibility that the battery is weak and not supplying enough amperage to the starter. Most piles will give an indication of whether the battery is nominal or weak. The voltmeter should read more than 10.5 Volts DC, nominal is 12.4 VDC approximately, varies from battery to battery. If the battery checks good, check all the connections.

Then check the voltage after each connection starting at the battery while someone turns the key. The volts should stay the same or very close as you progress towards the starter. Barring missing teeth on the flywheel, I think it is electrical unless you (or someone else) didn't hear it running and tried the starter again. Makes me cringe when that happens...

Also, make sure you have a very good ground from your battery to the chassis and the engine block. I've seen that cause problems, also.

Let us know what you find, and good luck!

ETA: One thing you may also do is get someone to give you a jump start. The extra amps should engage the starter. That would tell you for sure if its the battery.
edit on 19-12-2017 by NightFlight because: (no reason given)



posted on Dec, 19 2017 @ 02:00 PM
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a reply to: NightFlight

Thanks. My buddy is coming over Friday and we are gonna spend a little time with the meter and depending what's what I'm gonna wire a switch like I said



posted on Dec, 19 2017 @ 02:14 PM
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oh and if :

this

is the starter on your vehicle

then - unless you have bought a faulty started with exactly the same fault as the origional

then the motor will not turn untill the pinninon is extended to engage with the ring gear

ewas the starter motor loose when you removed it ? - because unless the starter is in the wrong position or the flywheel has mooved - it should engage

and no its not a flat battery - or eathing fault - unless the spinning starter sounds insipid

go back to the flywheel



posted on Dec, 19 2017 @ 02:22 PM
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a reply to: ignorant_ape

Starter was not loose. Matter of fact after taking the bolts out I had to pry a little with a screwdriver.
And for sure it is not meeting the flywheel. The teeth I could see were fine when I had the starter out



posted on Dec, 19 2017 @ 02:27 PM
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a reply to: TinySickTears

then detached ring gear

it can be bodged - [ weld to flywheel ] - but that can go wrong

othwrise - its a big job

ETA :

use a set of jumpleades from the vehicles battery - the pinnion should hit the black shim in the pic in my link and the motopr spin with some torque
edit on 19-12-2017 by ignorant_ape because: (no reason given)



posted on Dec, 19 2017 @ 02:43 PM
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Myself I would take the starter back off and hook it up to either a battery charger or I suppose jumper cables from your battery. You should then be able too use a screw driver to jump two terminals on the solenoid and physically see the starter activate. Watch your fingers.

As far as wiring the solenoid to a switch, I actually did that once. 72 Camaro I owned. Worked fine until it got hot and melted and engaged the starter when I was driving.

Is it possible when replacing the starter you tightened up one of the probably 2 bolts that hold it in place to tight before the other and your starter is a bit of an angle? I might actually check that first. Just loosen the bolts, push the starter up tight and re tighten symmetrically. I don't mean to assume you didn't in the first place, but when cold uncomfortable and in pain it could happen.

Good luck



posted on Dec, 19 2017 @ 03:12 PM
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Look for a starter 'Relay' in the fuse box.... to start.



posted on Dec, 19 2017 @ 03:27 PM
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a reply to: Alien Abduct


I think what he is saying is that his starter is spinning but the bendix is not engaging. Otherwise if the bendix IS engaging then I would agree with you, I have had that problem.

Doubtful both the old and the new starter have the same problem. A bench test and inspection of the old one would have borne that out.

If the Bendix kicks out on the bench and spins then it could still be the gear is worn, but if the new one grinds and spins too, its not the starter.



posted on Dec, 19 2017 @ 03:30 PM
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www.ebay.com... e0458:g:kO0AAOSwyi9Z-DAS&vxp=mtr



Hope this helps. It will take a little bit of looking to locate your model, but find the relay location.... my guess, in the fuse box is the usual place on domestic cars.
edit on 19-12-2017 by Plotus because: help



posted on Dec, 19 2017 @ 03:40 PM
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a reply to: TinySickTears


Thanks for the help so far. The flywheel is not missing teeth. At least not in the position it's in now and now is when it won't start. I could see a bunch of teeth when I pulled the starter. All good.

Seeing teeth doesn't mean they aren't worn, worn enough to keep the gear from engaging. The tolerances are tighter than you think.

The bendix kicks out and the starter gear spins, engaging the teeth on the flywheel. If the teeth are worn in spots (they don't have to be 'missing') the starter will spin and make a grinding noise. The more the fly wheel is ground on trying to start the engine the more it wears in spots.

Theres no point to bench testing the new starter, it would be really rare for one to be bad out the box or rebuilt. If you didn't tighten the bolts enough or put the in the wrong holes (usually they are different length) or if grease got between the mounting surfaces, or if its the flywheel ground down right there, you have to try and turn the engine a bit to expose a different surface of the flywheel.

Is it a clutch or automatic?



posted on Dec, 19 2017 @ 03:43 PM
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Teeth seems a far off remedy, you would be experiencing starts grinding for some time, weeks...... and distinct metal in metal shreiky noise.



posted on Dec, 19 2017 @ 04:39 PM
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a reply to: intrptr

its an automatic.

about the ground down teeth. i have had this car for about 18 months and i have never heard any type of noise that would indicate i have #ed up teeth on the flywheel.
all of a sudden out of nowhere this is the problem i have.

of course friday i am going to pull the starter out again and have another look but im pretty confident this is not the problem.

i appreciate everyones help



posted on Dec, 19 2017 @ 04:40 PM
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while i do appreciate everyones help i kind of just needed to know if my idea of jumping past the solenoid would work. electrical is my worst #. it is nothing that cant be undone but i dont want to waste my time.



posted on Dec, 19 2017 @ 05:15 PM
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a reply to: TinySickTears

please watch this video :



once you have watched it - do you understand that if the starter spins - its not an electrical fault ?



posted on Dec, 19 2017 @ 05:28 PM
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a reply to: ignorant_ape

i stopped right away.
as soon as it started it talked about power causing the pinion to engage.
this is what i am worried about on mine.

when i crank it the starter spins but the car does not crank.
this is why i am thinking that the pinion is not engaging.
the teeth on the starter are not meeting the teeth on the flywheel.

are you saying that these motions of pinion and engaging are not separate?
i feel like 1 can happen but not the other

people keep saying flywheel teeth but i have not heard anything since i have owned the car to indicate that was becoming a problem.

another problem i have been thinking about but didnt think it was related is a no start/no crank

i would say since i have had the car that maybe 1 out of every 20 times i go to start the car i turn the key to crank and nothing happens. no sound. no clicks. nothing. like there is no battery in the car at all.
when that happens i turn the key to off and then immediately try to start and it always cranks and starts.

i just dismissed it as an ignition switch to be messed with later.

this is part of the reason i am thinking faulty wire somewhere.

of course it would be an ignition switch causing that problem and something else causing this new problem but when i bundle these problems together after replacing the starter i feel like there is a #ed up wire.

what do you think?



posted on Dec, 19 2017 @ 07:09 PM
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originally posted by: TinySickTears
while i do appreciate everyones help i kind of just needed to know if my idea of jumping past the solenoid would work. electrical is my worst #. it is nothing that cant be undone but i dont want to waste my time.



Lots of wires going into the solenoid body on the starter. The starter relay is a different component altogether. If you had intermittent problems in the past with starting (sometimes you get no click when turning the key), thats the starter relay or an open wire.

If it is electrical you don't want to make things worse by cutting wires and bypassing circuits. 2001 Saturns have a lot of wires running to and from the starter and solenoid.

Lots of luck, I'm played out.



posted on Dec, 19 2017 @ 07:13 PM
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a reply to: intrptr

thanks man
appreciate it
for the record there is only 1 wire going to the solenoid



posted on Dec, 19 2017 @ 07:33 PM
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originally posted by: TinySickTears
a reply to: intrptr

thanks man
appreciate it
for the record there is only 1 wire going to the solenoid

There should be more than one.

Found this...

cargurus



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