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Originally posted by StinkFist
Hmm...weird. Maybe the wood had a light coating of some kind of shellac or varnish on it that coagulated after a while in the bleach.
Looks nasty though.
Originally posted by GoldenChild
I'm in the UK too, can you tell me the brand of the bleach?
Originally posted by Mad dog
I hope the misses don't find out you swiped her bowl
Originally posted by CX
It supposedly kills everything. So how come in a few days, i have a growth this size in a bowl of pure bleach?
Standard Bleach Vs. Lemon Fresh Bleach
The biggest difference, aside from the scent, is that this isn’t a true germ killer. It has the same cleaning power as the standard bleach from Clorox however it isn’t sold as a disinfectant. If you use bleach to kill germs, prevent the spread of bacteria or to sanitize then this isn’t the product for you. While I have no doubt in my mind that this will work just as well, the manufacturers couldn’t label this as an approved product for these tasks. Why? Well, the scent is part of the reason and another is that the products need to be registered with the EPA [Environmental Protection Agency] in order to be qualified, evaluated and listed as an EPA approved germ fighting agent. When I called Clorox to get a straight answer I got the run around, was asked “Why do you want to know” and when I told them it was for a product review they passed me around to a bunch of people that wanted to send me coupons but offered no real solid explanation.
www.epinions.com...
Originally posted by CX
reply to post by zaper
Very interesting, thank you for that info.
It does seem to have dried the wood out somewhat, almost like a driftwood effect but without the greying.
Looks like the bleach drained all of the goodness out of the wood.
CX.
Before you use bleach on any piece of furniture, make sure the wood is suitable for bleaching. Some woods don't accept bleach well -- cherry and satinwood, for instance, should never be bleached. Some woods, such as bass, cedar, chestnut, elm, redwood, and rosewood, are very difficult to bleach, and some -- notably pine and poplar--are so light that bleaching makes them look lifeless.
Choosing a Bleach Not all bleaching jobs call for the same type of bleach. Depending on the problem you want to correct, you may need a very strong bleaching agent or a relatively mild one. Below are some common bleach options you might want to consider. Laundry Bleach: This mild bleach can solve most refinishing color problems, from stain or filler not removed in stripping to ink stains and water spots. It works well for blotchy areas and for slight overall lightening, but it won't change the color of the wood drastically. Before you use a stronger bleach on any piece of furniture, try laundry bleach; it usually does the trick. Oxalic Acid: Oxalic acid, sold in powder or crystal form, is used to remove black water marks from wood. It is also effective in restoring chemically darkened wood to its natural color. You're not likely to encounter this problem unless you have a piece of furniture commercially stripped because lye and ammonia, the chemicals that discolor wood, are not recommended for nonprofessional use. Oxalic acid must be used on the entire surface of the wood, because in most cases it also bleaches out old stain. You may have to bleach the entire piece of furniture to get an even color. Oxalic acid is more effective in lightening open-grained wood than close-grained. Two-Part Bleaches: The two-part commercial wood bleaches are used to lighten or remove the natural color of wood. If you want a dark old piece to fit in with a roomful of blond furniture, this is the bleach to use. Two-part bleach is very strong and must be used carefully; wear rubber gloves and safety goggles. This type of bleach is also expensive. Several brands are available.
Originally posted by zaper
well nice info heh i know now how to bleach wood