Portable Power Stations ~ To Charge or not to Charge

A question concerning a VTOMAN 1000 power station (and solar panel) I recently purchased: If I'm keeping it for an extended period of time before use is it better to leave the battery in it's dormant stage until then or should I have it out and using it some and topping it off occasionally?

I included some information below, mainly because they list the battery as a premium LFP and I'm ignorant to "best practices" in that regard.

Also, if anyone happens to know much about solar what's the ballpark investment on a quality system that will pretty much run a 1300 sq ft home. Annnnd...how long do they typically last before you have to start putting money back in them?

Thanks!

-High power & capacity: Jump 1000 provides 1000W strong output power and 1408Wh huge capacity to support most appliances and devices like electronic stove, microwave oven, AC, and fridge. With unique V-surging Technology, the total instant output adds up to 2000W.

-Expandable Capacity: Adopt an additional 1548Wh extra battery* (sold seprately) based on your energy demand and double your Jump 1000's capacity to as large as 2956Wh.

-12 ports, power whatever you like: Jump 1000 features a pure sine wave inverter and multiple outlets, including: 3* AC outlet, 4*USB-A ports, 2*USB-C, 2* DC ports, and 1*car port to run low to high power appliances.

-Enhanced Safety & Endurance: VTOMAN LIFEBMS™ system guarantees enhanced battery perfomance and health.

-55,000 hours super-long performance: Powered by premium LFP battery, Jump 1000 offers over 3,100 battery charge circles which adds up to at least 55,000 hours of battery performance --- 6 Times better than the industry's average.

a reply to: The GUT

I assume LFP means Lithium Iron-Phosphate (AKA LiFePo)?

With LiFePo batteries it is important to neither overcharge nor totally discharge them. If you overcharge them, they will overheat and that can damage them. If you totally discharge them it may be impossible to recover. I had a LiFePo battery pack that I was going to use for a project and I charged it up and then let it sit for a year and a half. By the time I got around to working with it again, it had totally self discharged and could not be brought back to life. The best bet is to have a trickle charge battery management system hooked up to it that will keep the state of charge between about 20% and 80%.

a reply to: The GUT
We would need a list of the electrical items you want|need in your 1300 sq ft home to make an estimate.

What influenced your decision to buy VTOMAN 1000 power station?
As opposed to other brands like Jackery , Bluetti, etc, etc....
Just curious.
been on fence about buying 1.
Gas or Electric.

a reply to: spoonbender

Tbh, the reviews seemed pretty positive and I caught a great introductory price with a 100w panel thrown in. I will be upping that to a 200w panel---any suggestions on those? Durability is usually a criteria item for me. I found it all a little confusing because this is totally new to me, so your research might lead you to one of the others as a better choice.

I would've got the larger unit if the same discount applied but it didn't. I also liked the add a battery option but others probably have that as well.

Good luck and I'd love to hear how it works out with your decision.

originally posted by: Mike27
a reply to: The GUT
We would need a list of the electrical items you want|need in your 1300 sq ft home to make an estimate.

Thanks, Mike! Heat pump which I believe is fairly efficient, stove, fridge, small water heater (about 20 gal I think) wifi/computer, coffee maker, fluorescent lighting throughout (it was a tiny rural post office that closed.) So basics I guess.

a reply to: The GUT

My first recommendation is to get rid of all your electrical appliances and put in gas. Not that I prefer this but it is the only practical way to go solar. Gas water heater, gas stove, etc.. Get rid of those loads and your system will be much smaller and simpler.

Also, what are you going to do about the toxic runnoff water when it rains?. The solar panels slowly degrade their constituent materials into the environment. They contaminate the land they are installed on.

I would suggest a "battery maintainer." These things are "smart" in that they know the state of your battery and will not over-charge them. I have several of these: CTEK Battery Maintainer. I use one on my portable generator, a 12 KVA Honda that powers the entire house (minus HVAC).

a reply to: The GUT

Also, if anyone happens to know much about solar what's the ballpark investment on a quality system that will pretty much run a 1300 sq ft home.

It won't work like this, the margins to build an efficient PV system that gives you high autarky are small.

It depends on the type of inverters you use, your location, sun hours, your electric consumption, times you are at home, do you want storage or not, what % of autarky do you want to reach, when do you want to have the system paid off itself, do you get any money for sending into the grid, contrary, are you allowed to send power into the grid, what measurements do you need to take according to your energy supply company so this won't happen.

What direction does your roof look, is it flat, angled, what's the angle? How many square feet and do you have south, east, west or any combination of them? What are the lowest and highest temperatures at your location? Do you have anything around that might cast shadows, maybe you then need optimizers on module layer then.

These questions were just the beginning...

Here's the catch. We are on a conspiracy board...I can simulate PV plants with PVsol. But I would need more private information like angle of latitude and local information like a satellite or areal picture of your roof including angle of said roof(s). Not necessary, but at least any kind of blueprints where I can see the angles and orientation to the sun.

Anyone that want to sell you a PV system without asking at least the above questions does not know their job and you will be let down, I promise.

a reply to: schuyler

Thank you, Sky! Will this also work for e-bike batteries?

a reply to: TDDAgain

Wow and thanks. It's has great sunlight I think as the sun travels pretty much directly over. I can see I basically need to talk to a professional even to start figuring it out.

I'm not sold on the idea but the thought of a mortgage-free retirement minus pesky rising electric costs. No gas lines out there but I do like the idea and wouldn't mind a tank. However, I just bought all the appliances and had the heat pump put in and I don't think with the system cost I'd want to replace all that too.

It all sounded good in my head though.

a reply to: The GUT

I run my own PV plant, 750kWp on the roof of my shop and garages and worked in that industry. I made mistakes because I trusted the company putting it there. The company used the wrong sheets to put in between the aluminium construction and the roof. It's a nuisance because they rot and constantly clog the drains, as the rain washes them towards the drains and the construction even channels it.

Costs me around 3k a year to get these things replaced and the whole roof cleaned down to not risk damage to the building. The company went broke soon after so I do not have warranty anymore on the installation itself. Small things like that, professionals know, and I thought these knew. But they did not or ordered the wrong one. Because the plant is so huge, the financial setback isn't that big, but it is a danger to the building.

Things like this, can get very costly, very quick. And you can not abandon the system, you have to look if there are faults or offline inverters. Many think it's buy and leave it like that but it's not. I pay a company money so they watch over my plant during the day. If there is a problem that would come down to loosing money, they can scramble out without even asking me, as long as it's below 1k €. Because like for example if the PV plant is offline on a summer day, that is a four-five digit loss in € for me (set's me back paying off the financing, obviously).

And when it's all paid off in 1.5 years, all that money goes to my bank account and or into the next project. I think about investing into H² electrolysis, maybe I convert the plant to that and then sell green hydrogen in five to ten years when the technology is more refined. That is why I asked you how long you want to take to have it paid off, very important. My contract runs out in five years, I already plan for the next one.

Now read carefully: I did not had to invest one single € from my own purse. I projected the plant, went to my bank, showed the the ROI, same day I got the call to go for it. They had cross referenced my plans with other projects and were more than happy to give me the money. They even wanted more kWp but there isn't enough room.

This is only possible because the EU gives me a bit on top of what the energy company gives me, as incentive. On the other hand, at a normal summer day, my PV plant provides power to over 200 homes (by math) on full load (in theory).

You can PM me here or in discord if you need help

You need about 20 panels on your roof, a pure sine invertor capable of producing 220V, and a massive battery bank. Refrigerators and freezers take a lot of power to start up. From experience Im certain that your set up will not run either. You need at least a 2000 watt invertor to start a small chest freezer, and most refrigerators use way more power then freezers. What Im saying is- When a freezer or fridge starts up, it demands a lot of power for a second or two to initially start the compressor(like over 1500 watts), then it drops down to about 150 watts constant. In that initial second long surge, your invertor will redline and shut down.

I have a very small system I built myself consisting of 4-100 watt panels that feed 3 giant 151 lb UB8D batteries. I have 3 invertors connected to them. 5100 watts total combined.

Yesterday afternoon a big box truck hit the powerlines around the corner causing a 45 minute black out. My two chest freezers and small fridge in the garage kept on running. It was 102 outside, and almost plugged in a small portable AC as well, but the power came back on.

What you have is portable, and it can be very useful, but is likely too small to run any big appliances


Here is an older pic of the invertors. I replaced the middle one pictured (1500 watt) with a 2200 watt pure sine, because the 1500 watt invertor wouldnt start my freezers. The small 600 watt pure sine invertor on top is for charging my electric bike that goes over 30 mph (without pedaling) and has a 35 mile range.

a reply to: visitedbythem
I love it how you synergy with the ebike, well done! I myself charge the EV and power my shop, the rest I sell (I maybe need about 1% for the shop) and others can charge too via the electric companies app that does all the financial things for both me and the one charging.

Good advice on the motor current being pulled, it can be 10x as high as the nominal power current. Especially with freezers that do not do base loading 24/7 but surge loading / peaking.

I didn't understand OP had a complete system already, I thought he just has the mobile storage and a few panel and now wants a big system.



For the curious ones wanting to know why that is:
A coil is just a long wound wire. From the power source side, it is a shortcut almost. When the electrons move through the wire they produce an electromagnetic field around them. The coil then does not only influence the rotor in an electric motor, but it influences itself. The magnetic field inhibits the current. At the same time, the motor stands still so torque is needed and this comes from the magnetic field.

Because it wants to replenish, there will be more electron flow, also known as current. This is why some surge protectors in homes have different modes and characteristics. Best example is my big angle grinder in the shop. It pulls so much current that the surge protector flipped. The one I had was only 5x the nominal current, I got one installed by electrician that takes 10x and now it's not a problem.

a reply to: The GUT

The most important question, I should have asked first was:

Do you want to power your whole house even during a blackout, too?

originally posted by: The GUT
a reply to: schuyler

Thank you, Sky! Will this also work for e-bike batteries?

I believe so, but check the voltages. I keep one on one of my cars and my truck in addition to the generator. Both vehicles are seldom used, so it makes sense. I've used them for several years now. There's nothing more frustrating than a generator that won't start when the power is out! I also keep several containers of extra fuel and swap it out every year because gas deteriorates pretty fast. I use "Stabil" in the gas to prolong its life.

The generator burns about a gallon an hour--which is a lot compared to a diesel, but the diesels proved unreliable so I moved to gas. I had an electrician install a break-out box so a cable plugs directly into the house for a "plug in and go" operation. House is about 3200 square feet and powers everything except the 220 appliances such as the stove and dryer. But it does power the refrigerators and a sump pump, and, of course, the computers and Internet and all the electrical outlets work. We have a fireplace for winter, a BBQ and microwave. When the system is going there is really very little difference.

Of course, it won't last long-term, but it's a step up from candles and oil lamps. Just had a 12 hour incident this last week. Equipment failure, they said, but I'm thinking it was UFOs sucking energy from the power poles. The utilities are really good about sending emails saying, "Your power is out." assuming you can get them. Umm, and like I know that anyway, but at least I know it's not just me and I don't have to contact them. I live in the PNW which has lots of trees and I cannot see the horizon so this is not uncommon. Fun times.

As an aside the optimum angle for your solar panel is your latitude with your panel facing due south or north (depending on which hemisphere your in.)

Unless you want a sun tracking solar mount, which will add to your expenses.

Ua reply to: The GUT