the best striker // igniter media for matches

this is spurned by my anual kit admin - not current events

but i have found once again - that just using the supplied striker strip from a match box = inadequate - esp after long term store - and emergency kits - that can be cached for 1 year at a time

so solution = to an engineering supplies - and get several sheets of abrasive paper or cloth - that can be impact glued on to the lids of WP kit boxes etc

but what media // grade ???

i really want damp resistance to be one of top qualities

and with grit media from p20 [ almost a file for reducing large areas ] > p1200 [ so smooth you are only really polishing out imperfections ]

whats a good comprimise - too fine [ p1200 ] - it doesnt build friction and clogs - too rough [ p20 ] - it will snap match heads off

anyone done this with thier kit - and what did you use - ????????????????/

a reply to: ignorant_ape

My kit has 3 ferro rods (steel matches) and a couple of bic lighters.
I always have char cloth and a tin to make more if I run out.

Its not the fire you have, its about the fire you get next time.

a reply to: ignorant_ape

C/o Stealth Angel

*Lights under water...under $10

originally posted by: DrumsRfun
a reply to: ignorant_ape

My kit has 3 ferro rods (steel matches) and a couple of bic lighters.
I always have char cloth and a tin to make more if I run out.

Its not the fire you have, its about the fire you get next time.

Ummm…cool...same same...My BOB's each have three Bic lighters and three of those magnesium spark lighter matches...

I also have baggies with oil-soaked dryer lint for starting wet fires...


You can also use an empty Bic lighter and some lint to spark a fire...

You should be able to use a strip of fine emery cloth for the striker portion for a camp or kitchen match...












YouSir

I have 2 of the above

1st Responder

a reply to: ignorant_ape

Like all survival gear, matches are tools. And as you are finding out, not the best tools due to moisture buildup from humidity and temperature changes. Doing “preventative maintenance checks” on your gear is a seldom mentioned thing and I salute you.

As I said, not the tool. But a very inexpensive tool. Strike anywhere matches are better but cost a little more/harder to find. Here is the difference. Safety matches require the on the box striker because that is where the second chemical is located needed for the two part safety system. Can you light a safety match without it? Yes but required high heat from friction or other high heat source like an electric burner. Strike anywhere matches have the compounds they need and only need a little friction to light.

Moisture over time within the match itself can be combated with a wax dip. Just lightly scrape the wax (not the head) off to expose the head again. The wax will even buy you a little burn time. You could also ring your matches with dryer lint before the wax dip as a small “built in” tinder if you wanted.

As Drums pointed out, fire steal and Bic lighters are more bang for the buck and take less space. Keep in mind that once the butane is gone, that BIC is still a very easy to control and operate flint and steel for lighting char cloth. And char cloth can be made from cattail fluff gathered in the fall to save on your cotton supplies. Downside to char cloth is it is also subject to dampness.

Best over all fire starter is a pencil sharpener (or feather stick), or fat wood and fire steel.

I guess what I am saying is one match is only one fire...and that is only if you can get it lit.

Steel Wool and a 9 volt battery.

originally posted by: Argen
Steel Wool and a 9 volt battery.

Ummm...yessir…

If it's extra fine grade steel wool...you can get it to flare with just flint and steel...almost as good as magnesium...

Then again...a pinch of equal parts aluminum and iron powder...and a spark...






YouSir

a reply to: ignorant_ape

Skateboard griptape-very strong adhesive on one side,waterproof and sharp glasspaper texture on the other side.
You can buy it it different grades-usually these days its like a medium to fine glasspaper,but I think you can still buy the more chunky stuff.
Handy because you can stick it where you need it-by the stove/inside your match tin lin/survivla kit.
For lighting matches it will pretty much last forever.

Thats what I used to use years back-now I just use my face

a reply to: YouSir

Thermite....needs the heat generated by a magnesium ribbon as any pyrotechnics manual will tell you. But like in IT there is the way that fixes the problem and the Microsoft way to fix the problem.

originally posted by: Ahabstar
a reply to: YouSir

Thermite....needs the heat generated by a magnesium ribbon as any pyrotechnics manual will tell you. But like in IT there is the way that fixes the problem and the Microsoft way to fix the problem.

Ummm...yessir…just don't add water...

Point of interest...freshwater sacrificial anodes are magnesium...



YouSir

a reply to: ignorant_ape

whichever style of striking, fire lighting system you choose, i would recommend testing out your set up in a controlled environment. back yard with ideal conditions. it would be a rough go to use your equipment for the first time in an emergency situation. you may find that your kit is missing something. who knows?



funny...... when i was a kid, i could start a fire with nothing more than a cracker jack magnifying glass. today, i can't get a flame from a gas stove. ha ha ha

Plastic bag, some clean water and direct sunlight. You get a spherical shaped ball of water, you get smouldering tinder.

A match box striker is not just sand paper.. It's the red phosphorous that does the deed. So you will be striking all day with just emery cloth.

Failing the water bag, learn the stick method. Never fail then.

You probably already do, but check this guy out..



wealth of useful knowledge, but remember to turn subtitles on lest ye be lost...

I’m a huge fan of 9volt and steel wool, plus candle wax mix w/ wood shavings.
2 zip lock bags, 1 for battery, and other for wool/ starter.
In super cold weather when you can’t feel your fingers anymore, lighters don’t light as well, and matches become difficult to handle.

You can hold a 9volt much easier, and not need to flick your bic.
As long as 9volt is kept dry (in storage) it will spark even w/ wet hands in the snow/ rain.

Downside, of course, is they don’t last forever, but if you are rotating your bag regularly, I think it’s the best way to go.

I also carry a 2 lighters, as I tend go smoke.

originally posted by: Silcone Synapse
a reply to: ignorant_ape

Skateboard griptape-very strong adhesive on one side,waterproof and sharp glasspaper texture on the other side.
You can buy it it different grades-usually these days its like a medium to fine glasspaper,but I think you can still buy the more chunky stuff.
Handy because you can stick it where you need it-by the stove/inside your match tin lin/survivla kit.
For lighting matches it will pretty much last forever.

Thats what I used to use years back-now I just use my face

That’s a great idea, for stove or where ever I could stick it!
Gonna incorporate that into gear.
Might even put that and matches on boat somewhere.

appologies ATS - my OP should have been clearer .

i specified striker for matches - and left it at that .

sadly many of the alternatives cited in thread - are utterly useless

main function = light a candle

so the solution - has to work reliably for untrained people who are actually

i realise that " someone " is likley to demonstrate how to light a candle with a ferro rod - but ...

yes - we do have " bic type " lighters in kits

but they have a strange fail pattern - esp if left in caches

so - mea culpa