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originally posted by: Phage
a reply to: Night Star
It was. But not as scary as some days at Pipeline.
My teenage frontal lobe was not fully developed back then. That's my story and I'm sticking with it.
I remember one time standing on the beach in Maui looking out across the water. I kept thinking I was seeing something at the very limits of the horizon (and limits of my vision). I would strain to see, but I couldn't tell for sure if what I was seeing was just some kind of a mirage with the surf or what. Then the sun kind of went behind the clouds and I could see a whole bunch of tiny, tiny, specks way TF out there. They were wind surfers! And, they must have been out there at about 12 miles or so. I couldn't believe people were crazy enough to go out that far.
originally posted by: Phage
a reply to: DictionaryOfExcuses
Panic is bad.
I was pretty much self taught, that's a bad idea.